Knowing how to tell if a wall is load bearing is critical before starting any kind of demolition or remodeling project.
Removing walls in your home is serious business.
If a load bearing wall is accidentally removed, catastrophe can strike. Your home can actually collapse in extreme situations.
Besides the possibility of home collapse, structural damage will occur. The extent of the damage can vary but you could expect sagging ceilings/floors, cracked/shifting framing members, door/windows/fixture misalignment, and cosmetic drywall/trim cracking.
It’s not fun. And…it’s not cheap to fix.
That is why it is best to hire a structural engineer to examine any structural component of your home prior to removal.
That said, there are some signs homeowners can look for to gain a general sense on which walls are load bearing versus which are non load bearing.
Having some background on the structural system in your home can make planning your remodel a bit easier.
We will walk you through what a load bearing wall is, how to tell which walls are load bearing in your home, how to go about removing a load bearing wall, and what a project like this may cost.
Let’s dive in.
What is a load-bearing wall:
If you don’t already know what defines a load bearing wall versus a non loading wall, let’s go over that here. It’s critical to understand this so you can start to identify which walls may be easier to remove than others in your project.
A load bearing wall supports the weight of the floor or roof above. It is responsible for holding the house up, and if removed without proper reinforcement, can cause serious structural damage to your home.
Conversely, a non-load bearing wall separates rooms in the house but does not bear any weight from the above floors or roof. It can be removed without needing reinforcement support.
Click here to learn more about the anatomy of a load bearing wall.
Quick “hints” that suggest your wall is Load Bearing:
It’s in the joists:
First off, let’s define what a joist is. A joist is a horizontal structural member, running across an open space, that is used to transfer loads to vertical members, typically, floors & ceilings. See the photo below.
The direction of the joists above your wall can be indicative of whether the wall is load bearing or not. Many times, if the joists run perpendicular to the wall, it is load bearing. This is not always the case, but is a good starting point.
Look at the photo below. Notice how the joists above the wall run perpendicular to the wall itself. On top of this, some of the joists actually end on the wall. This is a sure sign that this wall is structural (load bearing).
Most times, if the joists run parallel to the wall, the wall is non-load bearing.
Using House Dimensions:
Sometimes, you cannot actually see your joists. If you don’t want to rip drywall up, you can get a pretty good idea of which way the joists run simply by looking at the dimensions of the house. Typically, the joists will span the shortest distance.
Look at the photo below.
Notice how the joists are being installed horizontally across the shortest span of the room instead of longitudinally across the longest part of the room. Well, if this house was finished, you obviously couldn’t see the actual joists. However, you could infer that a wall running horizontally would be non-load bearing because the joists would be running parallel to the wall (not perpendicular).
Again, keep in mind that it is important to have a structural engineer verify your prediction before removing a wall. It is not safe to simply assume the wall is non-load bearing because you’re pretty sure the joists run a certain direction.
Gable Roof:
Step outside your home. Look at your roof. What kind of roof do you have?
If you aren’t sure what kind of roof you have, read our blog on roof types & costs here.
If you have a gable roof with an internal wall running all the way up to the peak , you can probably make some assumptions.
Just for clarity, what is a gable roof? It has two sloping roof sections extending downward in opposite directions. The two slopes meet at the top to form a roof ridge.
See the photo below.
If you have a gable roof like this, often times the ceiling joists will run perpendicular to the center wall. See the photo below.
Knowing which way the ceiling joists go is very useful information. One reason is that, typically, the main structural beam of the house will run perpendicular to the ceiling joists.
Source
Exterior walls:
Most exterior walls are load bearing, but not all. It all comes down to where the roof trusses/rafters and floor joists/trusses are bearing. Long skinny homes may only have two exterior load bearing walls. To learn more about this, click here.
More extensive ways to tell if your wall is load bearing:
The basement:
Look for the main structural beam: The main beam serves as the primary support for smaller beams and all other structural components in the home. If your basement is unfinished, it’s much easier to detect because the beams and joists will be exposed.
Look for a metal I-beam or multi-board wood beam that spans the basement. If you can see the joists, they will be running perpendicular to the beam, indicating that it is carrying significant loads in the home.
Any walls directly above those beams are probably load bearing. This is also true for walls directly above each other on different floors.
Finished basements will not have exposed I-beams. Therefore, you will have to know what to look for to find them. Use the photos below as a guide to spot hidden main support beams in basements. Notice the aesthetically pleasing ways in which this was done.
Remember, walls on top of a structural beam are most likely load bearing.
Source
Check the Attic:
Rafters and truss systems: Attics can provide us with important information about which walls are load bearing. This is because rafters and truss systems (the attic’s framing members) greatly affect how loads are distributed throughout a home.
If you notice braces bearing down onto walls or ceiling joists stopping and starting over a wall, it’s highly likely those walls are load bearing.
The photo below shows both of the scenarios mentioned above indicating that the wall below (depicted in orange) is load bearing.
Source
Now that you have determined whether or not your wall is a load bearing wall, what’s next?
Open floor plans are “all the rage” right now. If all that stands between you and your open floor plan is a load bearing wall, do not fret.
It’s likely that the wall can be taken down and replaced with an equivalent support system such as a beam and post. You will need your structural engineer to design this plan for you.
Ask one of our structural engineers if they’ve ever seen a situation where a wall absolutely could not be removed. They will tell you that ANYTHING can be done with framing. What it comes down to is cost vs. benefit analysis.
Every structural engineering firm is different, so be sure to clarify what services you will be getting for your fee.
Does the fee include: an assessment, a report, structural drawings, and a scope of work (including directions on how to build temporary supports during wall removal)?
Most structural engineering firms work by the hour. So, it may be most advantageous for you to skip certain options such as obtaining a structural drawing for a simple project. Structural drawings are essential in some scenarios but perhaps could rack up a larger bill than necessary in others.
So, how do you install a support system capable of replacing the load bearing wall?
Well, you need to hire a structural engineer. Many residential structural engineering firms offer load bearing wall inspections.
This inspection is typically visual in nature and helps the structural engineer determine which walls are load bearing.
The engineer will want to be on site for this. They will not accept photos of the home alone because they need to personally inspect the attic, basement and of course the walls in question.
A report is generated to show which walls are load bearing and which walls are non-load bearing.
If you require a scope of work that your contractor can use, be sure to request this. Not all engineering reports will include this.
This scope of work typically would tell you how to remove the wall, how to temporarily reinforce it and demonstrate how to build the wall replacement i.e. a beam and column system (including which materials/connection types to use).
This report can help you obtain a building permit for your remodel and also provide your contractor with the steps needed to install an equivalent support system.
What do we mean by equivalent support system?
Well, you can’t just take a load bearing wall down. You must replace the wall with a system capable of carrying the same load (or more depending on several factors). A common solution is a beam and column system. A structural engineer is capable of engineering a beam and column strong enough to distribute whatever loads are present.
Note: It can take an engineer a lot of time to perform the calculations necessary for a beam and column system. They will need to look at the loads from the basement, all the way to the rooftop. It’s all part of the intricate structural system.
Here is an example of a generic beam and column system.
As mentioned above, your structural engineer can detail the structural information needed for your contractor to build a beam and column system capable of carrying essential loads. This would include the temporary wall support information as well as materials needed and connection types.
Note- NEVER remove a load bearing wall without first installing a temporary wall.
This could catastrophically re-distribute loads in your home causing:
- building collapse
- sagging floor or ceiling
- wall/ceiling cracks
- doors/windows that do not shut correctly
- severe floor settlement
Make sure you or your contractor know what you are doing before pulling that wall out.
What does it cost to remove a load bearing wall?
Costs will vary depending upon contractor costs, materials, and the engineering firm you hire.
Most structural engineers charge between $400-$1,200.00 for a load bearing wall inspection and report. This number can vary based on the number of walls they need to look at, the complexity of the project itself, and the number of beam & column systems they must engineer.
Structural engineers typically work by the hour, so the more time they spend analyzing, drawing, and performing calculations, the more it will cost you. Remember, the on-site inspection is the quick part. It’s the engineering and design work behind the scenes that takes the most time.
Tell your engineer up front exactly what you are looking to have done and what your budget is for the project. This will help them provide you with realistic quotes as well as any other important information related to your project.
It can be challenging to find a contractor willing to simply remove a wall. Many contractors have a minimum project price, and if your wall removal does not hit that target, they won’t take the job.
However, if you can find someone to remove the wall it may cost around $300-$1,400.00 for non-load bearing and $1,200.00-$10,000.00 for a load bearing wall. Again, these numbers vary depending on project complexity, materials, and home size.
There is also the installation of a new beam & column to consider. It could cost anywhere from $500-$5,000.00.
It is best to acquire a few quotes from contractors to determine a rough estimate of what the project will cost.
Then, hire a structural engineer to perform the load bearing wall inspection and generate a report.
Your contractor will have a better idea of the specific price point once the engineer’s job is done.
They will know exactly which walls are load bearing and require additional supports to be installed and will be able to account for the materials and time required to finish the project.
For additional questions on load bearing walls please contact Complete Building Solutions at 763-544-3355.
