Tired of your asphalt buckling?

facebooktwittergoogle_pluslinkedinmail

blog for 05112017 tired of your asphalt buckling 3

Now that the snow and ice have melted off your driveway, you will probably be surprised by the damage that was not there last fall. If your driveway could talk, it would say that it needs some repairs as well as regular care and maintenance.

In these northern states, buckling can be caused by frost heave in the spring or even from driving very heavy vehicles or machinery on the driveway repeatedly. CBS visits many sites where the asphalt has buckled as much as eight inches between winter freeze and spring time.

blog for 05112017 tired of your asphalt buckling 2

Many times upon excavation of the driveways, we find that not only is the soil comprised of organic clay, but many times, eluvial clay is also present. These two soils should always be removed prior to laying asphalt atop, as they will never dry out, and the freeze cycle will turn the wet clay into a larger ice cube.

The other issue that we find every day, is the installation of an insulation board under the soil, between the block foundation and the wet soils. This insulation board not only traps water at the block foundation, it also creates absolutely no thermal break, as many contractors believe it does.

blog for 05112017 tired of your asphalt buckling 1

As you can see in the pics, the trapped water eats away at the block and helps the wet clay to retain more liquid, exacerbating the freeze/thaw cycle. When builders/developers put in driveways and sidewalks, there should always be a soil correction of poor soils, and the sub rate beneath the asphalt topping should be no less than “cobit” that will compact to a density of 95 percent to ensure the asphalt will retain its elevation.

If you see your concrete or asphalt toppings move at your home, winter to spring…call CBS for an evaluation!

Water in my Basement! What Should I Do?

facebooktwittergoogle_pluslinkedinmail

water in basement

During the summer months, when heavy downpours from thunderstorms occur, you may experience water in your basement.  You ask yourself, “what can I do to prevent this from happening?”  The following are items you can review at your home to help determine the causes for this basement water.

  • Does the grade around your home’s foundation have a slope of 6 inches within the first ten feet of soil/landscape?
  • Do you have gutters on your house? Maybe you need gutters to collect the rain runoff from your roof?
  • If you have gutters are they:
    • Clean and not plugged? (They need to be checked several times during the year.)
    • Extensions on your downspouts of a minimum of five feet away from your foundation?
    • Gutters that are sized appropriately for the amount of water runoff created from the area of your roof?
    • Are there enough downspouts to empty the gutter fast enough?
  • Is the sump pump operational? Do you have a battery backup system if you lose power? Do you need a second pump in case of failure?
  • Do you have a wet basement often? You might need a collection system installed in the basement.

guttersmeasuring slope around foundation

These are some of the basic questions that may point you in the right direction when solving your wet basement problem. Feel free to email, comment, message, or call Complete Building Solutions with your questions. We offer moisture intrusion solutions and help prevent flooded basements throughout Minnesota.

(612) 868-2922

LIKE US on Facebook 

To READ UP on WATER MANAGEMENT check out Complete Building Solution’s latest guest column with the Golden Valley Sunpost  HERE

 

Read the Fine Print

facebooktwittergoogle_pluslinkedinmail

Many of the large insurance companies can make it very difficult for home and building owners to receive the maximum insurance funds in a catastrophe. Additionally, they will constantly move the goal post, re-writing their policy language. After you file a claim, insurance companies send out their inspection adjusters and you are notified of your final claim dollars. Often times building owners are in a situation where they need to negotiate with insurance companies and show evidence to get their full coverage on severely damaged exterior building products. I know this first hand.

Over the decades, after overseeing the completion of more than 50,000 roofs, I have seen insurance companies continually change claim coverage on crucial exterior building components. About 15 years ago my own home was hit by a horrific hail storm leaving nearly two inches of shingle granules in my gutters. Shingle granules are vital in preserving the lifetime of the roof by protecting the underlying asphalt from the sun’s harmful UV rays. This impact to my new 40 year shingles cut their life in half. I assumed my insurance company would cover such loss but they had discontinued granular loss coverage for some reason from hail damage. The news was quite a blow knowing that without granules the shingles will not last…period.

Through 40 years of field and personal experience dealing with hail and insurance companies, I have compiled a team to bridge the gap between building owners and the insurance companies. As a local engineering consulting firm it is our goal to help you in these situations and be your consumer advocate!

Storm damage is covered on your policy. It is my fear that all damaged pertinent materials should be replaced in order to protect your home long term and many times it’s not. Contact us, we want to make sure your home performs and is sheltered from the storm AND fine print.

Heaving Concrete and Asphalt – Subgrade

facebooktwittergoogle_pluslinkedinmail

In Minnesota, there are some excellent references that can be used as a guide for the design and construction of residential driveways. However, what is needed is a code that addresses the key elements of a driveway structure. I find it fascinating that there is nothing in the code that addresses the design or the construction of a residential driveway.

In my professional opinion, the key elements to a properly designed residential driveway are as follows: the proper subgrade with the required compaction, a solid base upon which the driveway material will rest (this blog is based on an asphalt driveway), the right asphalt thickness, and once the driveway is constructed, preventing water from entering the subgrade (water management system).

Proper Subgrade

What is a proper subgrade? The answer – one that is NOT prone to frost heaving.  Damage from frost heaving can result in the buckling of garage door trim which can cause the misalignment of your garage door. This misalignment can make it difficult to open and close the door.

Buckling of garage door tripm. Clay soils push concrete soils upward in winter.

Buckling of garage door apron. Clay soils pushes concrete soils upward in winter.

The subgrade should either be granular or con-bit.  Most subgrades today consist of clays and silts, soils that are considered expansive – these materials are not the proper subgrade.  If you have subgrade consisting of clays and silts, it should be removed and replaced with granular material or con–bit (this is normally referred to as a soil correction). Here at CBS we recommend using con-bit rather than granular material. Whether it is con-bit or granular it must be compacted and it should be compacted in lifts. Each lift should be about 8-10 inches. Once the subgrade is prepared then the base is constructed.

Concrete and asphalt can move as much as 8 inches when the soil beneath it freezes.

Concrete and asphalt can move as much as 8 inches when the soil beneath it freezes.

Many driveway problems occur right in front of the garage door. This is an area where the native soils are used for backfilling and they are seldom compacted properly and are often placed wet. This area is prone to becoming “wetter” over time because other elements feed moisture into it (poor water management systems). Disregarding this compaction and allowing the subgrade to become saturated are the key reasons why driveways settle and are subjected to frost heaving.

 

Moisture Intrusion Solutions: Solid Base & Asphalt Thickness

The next element of importance in a pavement structure is the base. The base is the layer directly below the driveway surface (either asphalt or concrete). AS previously stated, this article is based on a hot mixed asphalt driveway. The base material, in my opinion should be a class V material or con-bit (recycled concrete and asphalt). The thickness of the base will depend upon the thickness of the asphalt.

Let me explain – the design of the pavement structure should be based upon a term called “Granular Equivalent” (GE). The granular equivalent concept defines a pavement section by equating the thickness of the base and asphalt layer to an equivalent thickness of granular base material. Note: this is not my term, but a term used by the Minnesota Department of Transportation (MN/DOT) for designing pavement sections.

As an example, a class 5 aggregate base has a granular equivalent of 1 per inch of thickness and an asphalt course has a granular equivalent of 2.25 per inch of material.  So, if I have an asphalt thickness of 3 inches, and a class 5 course of five inches, my granular equivalent would be 11.75 inches. If I had an asphalt thickness of 2 inches and a class 5 base of seven inches, my granular equivalent would be 11.50 inches.

So, you see the granular equivalent can be any combination of asphalt and base. It goes without saying that the higher the GE number, the better the pavement structure (I have personally seen this to be true).  Low GE’s might not show pavement distress in the first few years but within 3-7 years, signs of distress will begin showing up.

The next element in the pavement structure and the ones everyone sees, is the surface course. To be frank, I am not sure what specification most residential paving contractors use for their design mix. I have seen HMA thicknesses from 2” up to 3” used for driveways. I think most paving contractors will use 2”-2 ½”. Especially in large residential developments. If you are an individual homeowner the contractor will probably use 2 ½” – 3”. In my professional opinion, I would recommend 3” – 4”.

Now getting back to the GE. I would recommend a GE between 10.5”-12” for residential driveways. Similarly, for reference – the Minnesota Asphalt Pavement Association (MAPA) recommends a GE of 11.5” for driveways also.

Conclusion:

The building codes govern the applications of these materials and practices. Neither the IBC, nor the IRC include information for residential driveway designs. Nor is there a recognized national standard. Maybe it is far “fetched” of me to think that one could be established, but at the very least, I believe the Minnesota State Building Code should address the issue.

Incidentally, I have over 30 years of experience with the Hennepin County Department of Transportation dealing with bridge and roadway designs.

 

 

 

Sheetrock Cracks from Water Invasion

facebooktwittergoogle_pluslinkedinmail

With 2016 being one of the wettest years in Minnesota on record, you may be experiencing things in your home this winter you haven’t in past years. Heavy fall rains and the quick freeze may have negatively impacted your home. Water expands as it freezes, affecting building components such as shingles, siding, windows, doors, framing members, drywall, flatwork and foundation walls. Movement from frost expansion can cause degradation to building components and often, complete failure.

Water follows the path of least resistance so homeowners need to ensure they are not inviting water into their building envelope and particularly into the foundation. Poorly installed or under maintained components such as flashings, roofing, siding and exterior  grade will invite water into unwanted areas. Common identifiers are cracks in walls and ceilings and heaving of driveway aprons and sidewalks. Unusual sounds in your home during extreme cold may also be observed. Doors and windows may become difficult to operate. Gaps in wood trim may appear.

Another commonly overlooked area is your attic. Look in there on a cold day. If you see frost on the underside of the roof, you are experiencing heat loss and likely inadequate or faulty ventilation. The frost you see can lead to mildew and eventually, wood rot. Controlling the temperature of the attic is a key part of preventing water intrusion. Figure 1 below is a great depiction of how the combination of heat loss and cold weather can damage your home.

pic

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

If you are experiening any of these issues this winter, you need to contact Complete Building Solutions. We can assess your home for possible problem areas and provide a corrective course of action. Don’t let Old Man Winter destroy your home!

Reserve Studies

facebooktwittergoogle_pluslinkedinmail

 

condominium

Developments that have defined shared property/common areas and improvements have agreements including restrictions on the deed for the use of the property.  This includes its repair, maintenance and replacement of these common areas. The association is responsible for these decisions and for the funds required to accomplish those responsibilities.

A reserve study provides an estimate of the costs of repairing and replacing major common area components (roofs, asphalt, siding, concrete, decks, etc.) over the long term. Ideally, all major repair and replacement costs will be covered by funds identified by the association as reserves.  This then results in the funds being available when the replacement is necessary. A good reserve study examines the obligations of the association including the following items:

  1. Examination of the associations repair and replacement obligations;
  2. Determination of costs and the anticipated timing of replacement; and
  3. Determination of the necessary reserves (cash) for the related expense.

Usually the Association Board has a fiduciary responsibility to manage the funds and property. The reserve study is a vital management tool for the association as it balances and optimizes the long-term values and costs for the membership. Astute potential buyers will examine an association’s reserves and whether a reserve study has been performed. For association members, reserve planning assures property values by protecting against declining property values due to deferred maintenance and the lack of reserves to pay for the aging components.

Your association needs a reserve study and as a member of the association, you want the most value for your dollar to protect your asset.  Many associations think they can perform this task on their own but this puts the Board Members at an undue risk to make these decisions.  This is where Complete Building Solutions, LLC (“CBS”) can make a difference for your association.

CBS is an engineering and consulting firm located in the Twin Cities and has years of experience working with associations like yours. Our staff of experts includes experienced engineering, construction, financial and real estate experts to assist your association in closely examining the components listed above.   We have a proven track record including uncovering every detail of your specific associations components and their related life expectancy.  This determination can then be evaluated for expected replacement costs and necessary reserves needed.  We have performed considerable construction defect work, solutions and cost analysis which gives us a real understanding of the issues at hand.

If your association needs a thorough and in-depth reserve study, please give CBS an opportunity to work for you.  We recognize that your ownership within the association may be one of the largest assets you possess. Let CBS work with you to protect it.  You can feel assured that we understand the dynamics of cost effective measures to keep your association fees in line with your budget.

Has your Home Inspection Left you Requiring an Engineer?

facebooktwittergoogle_pluslinkedinmail

 

team-on-site

Home sales today often require the issuance of a Home Inspection. A home inspector’s report may cite issues and problems within homes that sometimes need an engineer/consultant to review. These may include foundation issues such as cracks in basement walls, moisture intrusion, bowed walls, alterations to foundations, ice dams, etc. Sometimes they include structural questions regarding load bearing capacity, structural changes made to existing walls, trusses or other structural members. These questions and issues are included in the inspector’s report in order to determine that the home is safe,  structurally sound, and that any modifications have been made appropriately.

Complete Building Solutions has been called on to provide both Sellers and Buyers with solutions to these Home Inspection questions.  If you find yourself needing a resolution to an issue discovered during a Home Inspection, please call Complete Building Solutions, LLC.  We will promptly assist you in resolving your question.

(612) 868-2922

www.cbsmn.com

 

Looking to Avoid a Construction Defect Lawsuit?

facebooktwittergoogle_pluslinkedinmail

construction-project-manager-picture

Construction defect is any contractor’s worst nightmare. Often times, thousands of dollars will be spent on lawyer fees and repairs while company hours are spent working on the case instead of current projects & sales. It can also mean endless headaches, stress, and sometimes even bankruptcy. This is why Complete Building Solutions, LLC is here. We provide support to contactors through the highest form of project management available.

Our expertise lies in building performance. We know how to make buildings last and perform according to state and international codes. Because of this, we often pair up with contractors to act as their overseer to ensure projects are constructed correctly. This brings satisfaction to both the contractor and client. We are a smart investment that is beneficial to all parties involved. Contractors save money in the long run by avoiding a potential lawsuits and clients feel at peace knowing an experienced consultancy has been on site.

Garage Apron Failure

facebooktwittergoogle_pluslinkedinmail

Garage Apron Failure

Most garages have a section of asphalt or concrete that extends 2-4 feet outside of your garage door. This is called a garage apron. It acts as a transition between your garage and your driveway and helps to direct water away from your home. This area is very susceptible to failing or damage if it has not been constructed correctly or does not seal properly between the transition of the apron to garage or apron to driveway. Have you noticed cracks, gaps, erosion, sink holes, or heaving around this area? If so, you may want to consider repair options before the issue progresses any further.

Why should I replace or repair?   

If moisture is getting under your garage apron, the integrity of your garage’s foundation is at risk. If water is not deterred from this area, the severity of the visible issues will progress. The issues you cannot see, such as degradation to your foundation, will also advance.
These common garage apron defects are typically due to settlement (ground movement). Settlement can occur for many reasons: inconsistent soil compaction, the wrong soil selection, tree root invasion, or water erosion. When you live in areas with drastic temperature changes, such as Minnesota, these problems become more prominent because of the frost heave cycle. If you are planning to sell your home and you have any of these conditions present, it is likely they will be addressed in an inspection report.
Failures in driveway and garage
The picture above depicts a transition between a garage floor and driveway that has failed. Water has been able to enter this transition and settlement has occurred causing a significant hole. This can lead to additional failures in the driveway and garage if this defect is not addressed.

What to do?
Depending upon the type of issue and progression, different solutions are available. It could be that the soil compaction was not consistent. In this case, the soil would need to be dug up and replaced. If sink holes are present, the entire apron may need to be removed, foundation filled, and base material raised. To determine the severity of your problem and a lasting and cost effective solution, call CBS today.

(612 ) 868-2922

Kickout Flashing…It’s Important!

facebooktwittergoogle_pluslinkedinmail

 

Did you know that one small piece of metal could be the difference between a healthy home and a home with serious moisture intrusion problems?

This piece of metal is called KICKOUT FLASHING.

 

Kick out flashing can be found on roof to siding junctions where the wall extends out past the roof line. Rain is meant to run alongside of the wall and move into a gutter. However, it needs to be directed into a gutter by means of kickout flashing. Without this small detail, the water can migrate behind the siding and end up seeping into the wall. Remember, water seeks the path of least resistance. Leaks and serious damage occur this way.

Below is a picture of kick out flashing properly doing its job.

kick out Flashing

Photo credit: homearchitects.com

kickout-flashing

When kick out flashing is missing, moisture will indefinitely infiltrate the home. Often times damage is occurring without the homeowner realizing. Some side effects are mold, mildew, rot, and an overall breakdown of building materials.

Below is a photo depicting missing kickout flashing. Notice the water staining and mildew on the sheathing (due to lack of kickout combined with improperly installed WRB).

Missing kick out flashing

Call Today to have your roof inspected.

(612) 868-2922

Scroll to TOP ↑ Target: